Australian Beer Awards 2005

It was a sombre mood as the Barons of Australian beer shuffled out of the Hotel Sofitel Ballroom after the International Beer Awards in Melbourne on the 5th of May. There were few cheers of victory as once again the Australian beer industry was stumped by a little pub-brewery from Oregon in America –Pelican Pub Brewery who was awarded the Grand Champion Trophy for their Doryman’s Dark Ale. The big question at the after party was why Australian breweries can’t seem to crack the ‘Beer of the Year’ prize, and how the overseas beers seem to be stealing our thunder. Not since 1999’s Hahn Premium has an Australian lager taken out the coveted Grand Champion Award. Only 51 gold medals were awarded on the night from 40 different classes of beer, and of that only 22 gold were awarded to Australian breweries. Now if you take away the 7 gold medals awarded for packaging, the picture becomes even dimmer. We thought it only right to speak with the judging panel as to their opinions on the subject.

Chief Judge Peter Manders put it best. “There is no reason why an Australian beer can’t win the major prize, but they must be able to stand up to world best standards or our awards wouldn’t have the international recognition we have worked so hard to achieve. This year we sampled some 270 varieties of keg beer, an increase of a third over last year. It took a total of nine days to assess 793 entries from over 31 countries. The standard of beer quality is the best we’ve seen, in all areas, and increasingly difficult to judge the best. The final judgement was between 6 beers to award the grand champion, and then the judging panel got it down to 4 by popular consent. Based on merit, a secret ballot was used to select the best from the last three.

We asked novice associate judge Simon Walkenhorst from the Hargreaves Hill Brewery in rural Victoria his opinions on his first experience as an international beer judge. “It was great. They divided the room in half with one side judging lagers and the other side ales. Being one of the ale judges I was impressed by the heavy hoppiness and huge back palate bitterness in the American India Pale Ales. They actually left me with a heavy tongue feeling. The specialty ales were also a highlight. The chilli beer smelt like a jar of chillies and after the initial maltiness had run its course the burning chilli flavour had us running for the water jug on the double! I had never experienced the smoked Rauch styled beers before so they were also a highlight. The raspberry, blueberry and blackberry beer were so strong it was hard to find the beer in the flavour profile. Overall, a fantastic experience and I hope they ask me back again.”

But enough about the judges already, let’s talk about the winning beers you can buy and have a taste of. The Grand Ridge Brewing Company has again walked away with a top award. In a world first 2 products tied for the Premiers Trophy and both were from Grand Ridge Brewery. Supershine and Supershine Vintage shared the prestigious Premiers Trophy. Grand Ridge Brewery also won the award in 2002 and 2003. In fact, since 1994 Grand Ridge has won well over 100 international medals for their beers which include Lager, Ale, Wheat, Dark, Stout and Light class categories. The company situated in the tiny hamlet of Mirboo North, Gippsland, has proved beyond any doubt that it consistently produces some of the best beers in the world, picking up a total of 12 awards from it’s range of beers this year.

Matilda Bay Brewing Company has been awarded the Champion Lager Trophy for its popular Bohemian Pilzner. According to Matilda Bay’s ‘Malt, Hops and Water Guy’ Brad Rogers “Winning gold at the AIBA is an honour in itself, but for Bohemian Pilzner to be awarded a Champion Trophy – it’s just fantastic. At Matilda Bay, we’re all about creating Australia’s best craft and specialty beers and this award is an amazing acknowledgement from fellow brewers and the brewing community.” With Bohemian Pilzner, Brad has produced a beer celebrating the style that began around 160 years ago when the brewers of Bohemia made the first true lager style beer in the town of Pilzen. The beer is brewed with premium Australian pale malt and authentic Czech Saaz hops, to provide a beer that has a spicy, floral aroma and a clean, rounded palate with a bitter finish. Matilda Bay was also fortunate enough be awarded 23 medals for beers as diverse as Redback Wheat, Rooftop Red Lager, Dogbolter Dark Lager, Alpha Pale Ale and Stickler’s Best Bitter. Also awarded was a ‘Best in Class’ for the delicious Redback Mild.

Champion Stout has once again been taken out by Coopers Best Extra Stout. This stout has continually impressed judges since it won Beer of the Year in 1994. Coopers took home 18 medals against intense competition from leading breweries across the globe. Coopers Best Extra Stout was also awarded a gold medal in the International Packaged category. Best Extra Stout won the International Draught Stout section outright for the second consecutive year while it also took out the International Packaged Stout category outright. Coopers Managing Director, Dr Tim Cooper, said winning one gold medal, six silver and 11 bronze medals was testament to Cooper’s global reputation for producing high quality beverages. “While Best Extra Stout was a star performer, we were also delighted to win silver medals for Sparkling Ale and Special Old Stout,” he said. “This is a fantastic result and a major global vote of confidence in Coopers”.

Toohey’s Ltd. didn’t do home empty handed on the night, as their Hahn Premium Light took the trophy for Champion Reduced Alcohol Beer, and Hahn Premium winning best in two classes of Australasian lagers. Lion Nathan Chief Brewer, Bill Taylor, was delighted with the recognition received for the brands saying: “We have long been convinced that Hahn Premium and Hahn Premium Light are great brews and now we’ve had it reconfirmed with further success at these awards”. “It’s great to have our efforts commended by an independent group comprised of some of the best brewers in the world,” Taylor said of the judging panel. “Hahn drinkers can again be reassured that their favourite brews are in fact the beers of choice of some of the best brewers in the business.” Taylor attributes the brews’ success to Hahn’s commitment to quality brewing and the distinctive hoppy characteristics of its brews. “Hahn Premium Light is a superior tasting light beer that is brewed for full flavour and refreshment,” he said. “The outstanding taste is achieved through modern brewing techniques, using the combination of imported hops and the finest Australian malt.” “Hahn Premium is handcrafted with higher malt levels and a blend of three special hops. The unique pleasant bitterness and finish of the brew is produced by late hopping with European aroma hops,” Taylor said.

.Their ‘little sister brewery’ Malt Shovel didn’t miss out either with best in class victories for their James Squire Porter and in-house beer Speculator from the James Squire Brewhouse & Restaurant at Kings Wharf, Sydney. Brewmaster Chuck Hahn was quite pleased with the results. “It’s fantastic to do so well and tributes to our craft brewers who have created distinctive flavoursome ales that are a unique experience for the Australian beer drinkers.”

Before we close our review of the 2005 Beer Awards, I’d like to acknowledge a few other small Australian breweries that impressed the judging panel. Sydney’s Redoak Brewery continues to kick goals with Best in Class awards for their Oatmeal Stout, Special Strong Ale, Honey Ale and Rauch Ale. Queensland Brewer Brennan Fielding is starting to get some well overdue recognition for his Oxford Brewery’s Oxford Nights lager and low alcohol Oxford 152. West Australian Bootleg Brewery continues their outstanding success with their fantastic Raging Bull Porter. Canberra’s Wig & Pen pub brewery seems to win gold with their Russian Imperial Stout every year, while Woodend Victoria’s hometown champion brewer Paul Holgate impressed the judges with their potent Holgate Brewhouse Winter Ale. Look for some special beers coming from Mildura Brewery to be gaining some recognition in the near future.

Nationalistic favouritism aside, we acknowledge the efforts and achievements of the import beers that made their mark on the 2005 judges. A salute to our ANZAC partners who continue to offer excellent beers, in particular small breweries Emerson’s and Steam Brewing Company from the North Island of New Zealand... Richard Emerson won 2 best in Class Awards: Best Australasian Ale- Emerson’s Old ’95 and Best Small Brewery –Specialty Section- Herb & Spiced Beer -Emerson’s Taieri George. And Luke Nicholas from the Auckland Cock & Bull pub- brewery seems to be enjoying the larger brewery at Steam Brewing winning best in Class for the second year in a row with his Best India Pale Ale -Monks Habit.

And love ‘em or hate ‘em, you have to respect the American small breweries and the fantastic products they produce. Samuel Adams has been dazzling us with a splendid display of specialty beers since winning Grand Champion in 2002 with their outstanding Samuel Adams Double Bock dark ale. This year is no exception winning Best in Class Light Beer and a gold medal for their Honey Porter. Impressive results were noted for perennial winner Rogue Ales, with gold medals for their Imperial India Pale Ale and Belgian styled Saison. Without a doubt, the Pelican Pub-brewery from the tiny Oregon town of Pacific City, population of 800, has blown away all comers large and small at this event. Grand Champion with a perfectly balanced Doryman’s dark ale is accompanied by accolades of Champion International Brewery, plus Best Stout with their ill-timed titled Tsunami Sweet Stout. The fact that such a small brewery from overseas can win for the second year is a testament to our judging panel, not a condemnation of Australian brewers and should be applauded for their fairness in their efforts.