Thursday, August 17, 2006

The Pride of South Australia

The history of the Cooper’s Brewery is as rich and colourful as Adelaide itself. The key to their success can be attributed to the 3 P’s – perseverance, purity, and popularity. The brewing dynasty of Yorkshireman Thomas Cooper dates back to 1862, but Thomas never meant to start a brewing business. A tradesman with gained expertise as a stonemason, shoemaker, and dairyman, Thomas was asked by his wife Ann, the daughter of an Innkeeper, to brew up a batch of stout from an old family recipe to help cure an unknown illness. Word quickly got around and Thomas soon found himself brewing the same Sparkling Ale and Extra Stout we still enjoy today for neighbours and friends. As the brewery flourished, Thomas delivered his beer by horse and cart direct to homes of his customers, a Cooper tradition which survived until the 1920’s.

There were many small breweries operating in the 1840’3 on and by 1868 there were 43 breweries in South Australia. All encountered problems including bacterial infections from the higher Aussie temperature than England and inferior malt. The use of sugar in brewing as an adjunct was a way to overcome the malt problem. In a letter to his bother, Thomas Cooper states “There are half a dozen breweries in and about Adelaide but they use a good deal of sugar for brewing, but we use only malt and hops consequently, ours being pure, the Doctors recommend it to all their patients.”

Through the 1880’s South Australia experienced a decline in the economy following the onset of drought and falls in major exports of wheat and copper. The decline was felt in the brewing industry as well with Cooper’s production down to 62 brews a year and remained at that level for the next ten years. In 1881, Thomas Cooper had moved from Norwood to set up a new brewery at suburban Leabrook, then very much an outer suburb of Adelaide. Coopers operated on the Leabrook site for the next 120 years until 2001 when it moved to a new $40 million brewery it built at Regency Park to overcome problems associated with a lack of room at Leabrook, now one of Adelaide’s more prestigious suburbs.

By 1900 there were only 25 breweries left in the colony when Thomas retired leaving all his property to his four sons with instructions to ‘Carry on my business as brewers under the form “Thos Cooper & Sons” as partners and trustees

During the first two decades of the 20th century, the demand for Coopers showed an increase of 300% despite another major drought (1914) and the onset of World War 1. Shortages of brewing materials, manpower and an aged 29 year old brewery hampered Coopers production during the war years., yet in 1923/24 Coopers had 56% of the stout market due to the fact that it contained higher levels of alcohol and considered ‘value for money’

Coopers survived the great depression, continued shortages of materials, and lack of manpower during the war years, so by the mid 1940’s the brewing equipment required desperate upgrades. By 1945 one section of the brewery was in urgent need, wooden fermenting vats needed replacement to avoid infection problems experienced by other local breweries. The continued escalation of costs made it difficult to generate good profits requiring reduced dividends to shareholders including no dividend in 1951.Coopers relied heavily on the stout market and their leading competitor, SA Brewing, reintroduced their product which started a stout war. In Cooper’s centenary year of 1962 the two rival companies met and consulted with shareholders to mutually exchange shares giving SA Brewing 25% interest in Cooper’s. Along with the family share structure, this deal virtually eliminated a buy out of the company. This trust and loyalty is an integral part of Coopers and was seen recently again when in late 2005, Coopers was the subject of a hostile takeover bid by rival NZ-Japanese owned brewer Lion Nathan. That takeover bid was resoundingly defeated just before Christmas when the 118 Coopers shareholders, mostly descendants of Thomas Cooper, voted 93.42% to 6.58% in favour of a motion that effectively ended the bid.

Today, Coopers Brewery is the third largest brewer in Australia and the only one that remains entirely family-owned. The company is now being run by the fifth generation of the same family. As they like to say at Coopers, you can still meet a Cooper, but there is no Mr Lion, Mr Nathan or even a Mr Carlton. Coopers currently has about 3% of the national beer market but is growing rapidly, particularly in the Eastern States where growth in recent years has been in the order of 30% plus each year. In its home state of South Australia, Coopers has about a 25% share of the market. It exports bottled beers to a number of countries, including the UK, USA and countries throughout Europe and Asia. It also recently sent its first shipment of beer to Brazil. Coopers is also the largest producer of home brew concentrates in the world and exports them to most corners of the globe. In Australia, concentrates are sold through supermarkets and specialty home brew stores.

Monday, July 17, 2006

The Other World Cup

When he discovered that two of Australia’s premier craft brewers Brad Rogers of Matilda Bay Brewing and Chuck Hahn of Malt Shovel Brewery had been invited as guest judges to the Beer World Cup 20063 in Seattle, Washington USA, CHARLES COLL knew it was an experience he couldn’t miss.

Seattle is best known for three things, the birthplace of Starbucks coffee, Bill Gates Microsoft, and craft breweries. I also found many similarities with my hometown Melbourne - ever changing weather conditions, a vibrant city market, a passion for sports, and of course a love of beer. So it seemed a good fit that both cities are hosting major beer judging events. The Beer World Cup, often referred to as the Beer Olympics is the most diverse competition among brewers worldwide with 2275 beers from 539 breweries in 55 countries being judged by 111 brew masters from 85 categories.

The beer judging is only part of the festivities which also included a craft brewer’s conference with various seminar topics and a Brew Expo with 123 exhibitors of beer related industrial products that ranged from bottle fillers to fresh hops from around the world. These events were not open to the public, but provided vital interchange between fellow brewers and their suppliers. This camaraderie has certainly helped improve the craft beer market in the USA which is presently showing a nine per cent growth. The most startling statistic offered is that due to the popularity of microbreweries, one can be found within a ten mile radius of any home in the country.

So what did our brew masters have to say about their experiences? We asked them to give us an overview of the categories they judged, what styles of beer impressed them the most, and what would they bring back to Australia from the experience.
Chuck Hahn had the following to say: ÒI judged the honey lager beers, some aged in wood barrels that dominated the flavour, but most of the 47 samples we tried were too sweet for my liking. I was impressed with some of the seasonal beers like a rum barrel aged porter and a Dortmund/special bitter. There was also a very nice English styled brown ale at 4.5 per cent ABV that caught my attention. All the pilsners were very competitive, it was tough to pick from all the great European pils in the category. Without a doubt the most unusual category I judged was the fruit and vegetable section. There was watermelon, pumpkin, blackberry and cherry just to a mention a few. I really found the fruit complimented the hops and malt. I don’t think Australia is ready for these just yet, but I’ll be the first to introduce one down in Oz. I asked Chuck what were the differences between the Beer World Cup and the Australian International Beer Awards.

More categories and more beers to be judged for a start, plus they only award one gold, silver, and bronze from each category. The highlights for me has been the ability to catch up with fellow American brewers and find out what they are up to, different hops that are available, different brewing systems. I’ll take home some different concepts of brewing, a new beer cookbook and valuable information collected regarding beer education, beer and food matching plus some great literature.

I caught up with hops, malt, yeast and water guy, Brad Rogers right after the awards to get his impressions on judging and participating in the Beer World Cup. I was judging cellar and unfiltered beer, American-style wheat beer, German-style strong bock, specialty beers, but the categories that impressed me the most were the coffee flavoured beer, smoke-flavoured beer, and the Munich-style Hellas beers. It was a pleasure and an honour to be on the judging panel, but the highlight for me was the social interaction with such amazing people from all over the world. You just try to absorb as much as you can.

At the last World Cup I came back with the Rooftop Red Lager idea, and after the Great American Beer Festival in October, I wanted to make a Saison and here I am getting a bronze for one of our out there beers Barking Duck. For Matilda Bay, it’s a chance to push the envelope, to get things going on and out there for the Australian beer drinking community. We try to fill in the gaps and melt what we think the Aussie beer drinkers will want. I’m proud to be part of this international brewing community. Last night I was out with the Belgian guys from Orval. Duvel, Westmalle, and St Bernard drinking their beers and talking to them on a social level. There is so much diversity in the beer over here and we need to understand these styles. I’m confident we can because now we can get help from the greater beer community; then mould that style with things we enjoy, putting an Aussie slant on things.

During the course of the week I caught up with two terrific young brewers who had recently started up a micro-brewery in Biloxi, Mississippi called the Lazy Magnolia Brewing Company. Biloxi, Mississippi was in the eye of Hurricane (cyclone) Katrina which had devastated the town including their own homes and all their possessions. But under the heading of believe it or not the only building to be left standing was the tiny brewery which only lost its back door. With a brave face, the boys were determined to enter their beers and attend the conference. While in town they went down to the local op shop and each brought an $18 suit, but they insisted the suits at that price come with a shirt and tie.

Early on 5 in the awards ceremony, the boys were elated at wining a bronze medal in Category 6: Rye Beer with their Amberjaque Rye Ale. After going up on stage to receive their award they couldn’t wait to phone their sister with the news knowing that the whole town was at the brewery to show their support and loyalty. While talking to his sister the boys received a second bronze medal in Category 10: Specialty Beer Section with their Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale. The entire ballroom went quiet as the loudest YEEHAW I’ve ever heard was followed by a Holy shit sis, we won again! Who says their aren’t beer gods in heaven.

So how did the Aussies go in the award I hear you ask? Here are our results from 85 categories;

Category 4: American-Style Wheat Beer - Gold Medal Cascade Blonde Lager -Cascade Brewing Co.

Category 11: Specialty Honey Lager/Ale - Gold Medal Redoak Honey Ale - Redoak, Sydney

Category 16: Smoke-Flavoured Beer - Gold Medal Redoak Rauch - Redoak, Sydney

Category 17: European-Style Low Alcohol Lager - Silver Medal Hahn Premium Lager -Hahn Brewing Co-Bronze Medal Cascade Premium Light-Cascade Brewing Co.

Category 31: American-Style Low Carbohydrate Light Lager - Silver Medal Pure Blonde - Fosters Australia.

Category 39: Baltic Porter - Bronze Medal Redoak Baltic Porter - Redoak, Sydney

Category 41: French/Belgian-Sytle Saison - Bronze Medal Barking Duck - Matilda Bay Brewing Co.

Category 49: English-Style Summer Ale - Bronze Medal James Squire Golden Ale - Malt Shovel Brewing Co

Saturday, June 17, 2006

International Beers

There just seems to be no stopping the growth of premium international beers in Australia. This year’s statistics show around 18% by value on an MAT basis to June 2006 when compared with a year ago. Granted, discounting by major bottle shop chains has been effective but that doesn’t account for lower income housing developments also showing significant growth, and specialised beer shops also doing a whopping big business with no signs of slowing down. Add to that, any respectable up-market club or neighbourhood bar needs a staple internationally recognised premium to meet their client’s needs, simple as that. The new beer elite are now driven by flavour and aroma to an ever discerning Aussie palate, with the more delicate palates chasing less bitterness and a clean well-rounded taste.

Without doubt Lion Nathan’s flagship brands of Beck’s and Heineken have savoured success with around 20% value growth outstripping the international premium segment to June 2006 when compared with a year ago. Heineken, in a recent in-market activity introduced the Heineken Keg – a 5L portable draught system that stays fresh for up to 30 days after opening and enables people to enjoy a fresh draught beer when entertaining at home. Drink It Live activity in bars and clubs across the country educated bar staff in adding to the premium experience for punters through the correct pour technique for the Heineken brew.

In 2006 Beck’s continued its association with the Sydney and Perth Festivals (with Beck’s Bars at each event) and Adelaide’s Fringe Festival (for the launch of the Garden of Unearthly Delights, the Beck’s CITY BOTTLE was flown out from Belgium. It was a funky buffed silver aluminium bottle with the San Francisco nightscape in black – very in keeping with the brand’s advertising campaign which positions the brand as ‘worldly’ and for urban sophisticates).

The newest member of the Lion Nathan family, Dutch beer Amstel was launched in May of this year, specifically brewed to give Australians more of what they want and less of what they don’t want from a beer. Australia is only the second country in the world to introduce this beer following a launch in Russia earlier this year. Amstel has been successfully brewing worldwide since 1870, and is the third largest beer brand in Europe at 1.12 billion litres a year. Using an extra filtration process, Amstel is Pure Filtered to give a finer, purer full strength lager (4.7% alc/vol) with a refreshingly clean, crisp taste. Amstel’s Marketing Manager, Mai Ling Turner, is confident this new Amstel brew will appeal to Australian premium beer drinkers. “Over the last two years, there has been a huge increase in the consumption of mild-bitterness beers in Australia, with volume almost doubling from 37.5 million litres to 68.4 million litres since 2004 . From this, it’s clear that today’s beer drinkers want, something that tastes and feels less heavy, less bitter, and less bloating yet doesn’t compromise on taste and refreshment” said Ms Turner.

InBev continues to numero uno in worldwide beer sales and their relationship with Fosters Australia remains prosperous for both. Their ever popular Stella Artois has again shown double digit growth in 2006 behind investment in marketing and off premise promotion. According to Jamie Cook, General Manager Premium & Specialty Beer "Foster's Australia has been brewing Stella Artois draught at our Abbottsford brewery in Victoria for over 10 years, and we recently moved to local production of Stella Artois in pack. We moved to local production for two main reasons: First, brewing locally means we can deliver to consumers the best tasting, freshest Stella Artois available. Second, local production enables us to keep up with continued growth in consumer demand. The same brewing recipe is used locally as the imported product, and any noticeable difference in taste between previously imported and locally produced beer is because you are now being delivered fresher beer.”

Pacific Regional Director for InBev Sean Prendergast has more to say on the subject. “We have 4 global brands, Stella Artois, Hoegaarden, Leffe Blonde and Leffe Brun. We contribute much of the success in Stella Artois to the great partnership we have with Fosters Australia. Hoegaarden, the most successful specialty International beer in Australia, and our Leffe’s have also drawn success from the creative below the line support from places like the Belgian Beer Café’s. It has created a unique position and relevance in the beer market and we are very pleased with their progress.” 359

A new beer on the market from the InBev-Foster’s team is Star Opraman and Brahma. Star Opraman, a Czech pilsner style was introduced in last month’s Bar & Clubs and would be described as a softer lager style than the famous Pilsner Urquell. The Czech Republic drinks 150 litres per capita compared to us Aussies who down a respectable 85 litres per person so they should know a thing or two about brewing great beer. According to Mr Prendergast “ Star Opramen is not overpowering, a mild bitter but still containing a high 20’s BU (bittering units) which should please a wide range of educated lager drinkers.”

Another Czech beer worth mentioning is Zatec (pronounced ‘Jkatets’). Brewed since 1004 in the Saaz hop region of northwest Czech Republic, Zatec contains no additives or artificial carbonation, with a lovely aroma and well balanced Moravian malt flavour and regional hop bitterness. Still brewed and bottled at the original brewery, the lagered maturation is given over 45 days to achieve perfection. Zatec was awarded ‘Best Beer’ by visitors at the Sydney International Beer Festival (June 2006) held at Bungalow 8. The Melbourne market has embraced Zatec, and in just six months Zatec is now available in over 60 bars and clubs in NSW and Victoria.

Carlsberg has been brewing in Copenhagen since 1847 and remains a popular favorite around the world. Its light hoppiness compliments a dry malty mouthfeel, with a sweet malty finish. Carlgerg’s slogan on the side of a building in Copenhagen’s city hall says it all “Probably the best beer in town”. If Carlsberg Lager is noted for its light refreshing nature, then their Elephant Malt Liquor would be infamous for its unexpected stampede on your brain. Carlsberg Elephant is named for the life-size carved granite elephant that flank the breweries arched entryway. Golden-hued it starts off with a crisp floral character followed by a malty, yeasty aroma. Strong wheat like presence takes over and remains in the background Carlsberg Elephant is technically described as a German styled bock, or strong beer based on the high alcohol level, golden colour, with a sweet malt barley flavour. The smoothness of this delicious drop implies extended lagering for maturation.

Brewing transplanted from the Austrian Alps wasn’t introduced until the nineteenth century. It took the youth and fashionable Italians of the 1960’s to re-launch beer into modern times. Wine was their parents and the peasant to drink; they wanted English-styled pubs and Bavarian Beer halls. Market leader Peroni’s main brand Nastro Azzuro is the ‘Blue Ribbon Italian Pilsner’ which includes 20% corn maize to sweeten the brew and then hopped with Saaz to spice it up. At 5.3% A/V Nastro Azzurro is quite a refreshing well balanced lager for its sweetness.

Before we close, a word on Kronenborg 1664, France’s No. 1 selling beer, No. 2 in the UK, and on fire here in Oz. Dating back more than 300 years, Kronenbourg 1664 is a unique blend of aromatic hops from Alsace with a beautiful bouquet and rich well bodied flavour that is hard to resist. Kronenbourg 1664 hit the TV screens with two acclaimed ads based on 1664 being a good year for beer but not much else. The ‘Composer’ and ‘Sculptor’ demonstrate that both professionals featured were driven to distraction through their desire for a pint of Kronenbourg 1664 and subsequently didn’t complete their work. Hopefully that won’t happen to our acclaimed artists.

Tiger beer has also experienced phenomenal value growth (66% off a relatively small base) to June 2006 when compared to a year ago. Sponsored Chinese New Year activity in 2006.

Brahma was first brewed in Brazil in 1888 and remains one of the most popular beers in Brazil to this day. It’s characterised by a slightly fruity character (including tropical fruit such as papaya), distinctive hop aroma with a low bitterness, good body and no aftertaste. The curved bottle design was inspired by the laid back Ginga attitude of the Brazilians and an exotic tropical landscape. The Brahman team are confident that the youthful Australians will embrace the excitement and colour of the Brazilian culture in their beer.

Saturday, December 17, 2005

Small World

In these enlightened times, to discuss beers from overseas shouldn’t be some sort of holiday reverie when stockists are being shirt fronted by customers about the changing taste of their favourite lager from Europe. In fact, I was recently corrected by a brewery head when referring to them as imported beers when the ‘correct tagging’ is international beers. Apart from the bloke who wants to re-live a vacation experience, customers in the bottle shops are a savvy bunch who knows what they like and how they like it. So when the major breweries of Europe start brewing their products here in Australasia, the question of taste is expectantly put under the microscope.

We thought the best way to tackle the issue was asking the brewers themselves about why the likes of Heineken, Becks, Kirin Ichiban, Stella Artois, Tuborg, Carlsberg and Kingfisher are either brewed here or in New Zealand.

All the brewery reps we interviewed showed a straight bat in declaring the freshness of the product angle as the prime reason for brewing in Australia, and followed up with the inevitable ‘globalisation process’ typecast comment. But from the numerous emails I’ve received from loyal punters, the simple fact is that their favourite beer tastes different and they want to know why.

Brewmaster for Lion Nathan Australia Bill Taylor was somewhat bemused stating “I thought we addressed these issues in May of last year when we announced joint ventures with both Heineken and Becks with Lion Australia to bring the companies together in sales and distribution deals, involving the option to brew company brands in existing Lion Nathan Australia breweries by 1 July 2004.

The Heineken brewed in Australia is identical to the Heineken brewed in 90 countries across the world, and is unchanged to what has been brewed since Gerard Heineken perfected it in 1873.

The consistency of brew is possible because Heineken uses a proprietary brewing process, using special Heineken brewing equipment imported and installed here in Australia, a unique recipe which requires that all ingredients are imported, and are the same as those used in Holland, and of course the patented (and secret) Heineken A-type yeast.

The yeast used in Australia has been grown from exactly the same culture that has been used since 1873. Interestingly, the yeast was discovered by a pupil of the famous Louis Paster. It is the yeast that gives Heineken its flavour, but the yeast itself does not end up in the final product. The only ingredients in Heineken are a blend of four summer variety European grown hops, malted barley and purified water.

To ensure the process is strictly adhered to, a Dutch Mater Brewer works beside the Australian team who themselves have been fully trained in the exacting art of producing perfect Heineken. And to make absolutely certain, every local brew is sent to Holland for testing by Dutch Master Brewers before being released to the market. To date, every brew has exceeded the Dutch Master Brewer’s expectation of the taste of Heineken.

Locally produced Beck’s is brewed according to the German Purity Law of 1516 and using the same Beck’s approved malt, hops from the world famous Bavarian Hallertau region and, most importantly, the original, over 100-year-old cultivated Beck's yeast strain. Local water carbon filtered to the same purity standards that Beck’s use in Germany is also used and Lion Nathan have installed equipment to enable their brewers to faithfully reproduce the Beck’s process requirements.

Every brew of Beck’s made in Australia is dually verified and approved for sale by the Master Brewers in Germany and the Master Brewers here in Australia (who have worked beside their German counterparts to ensure consistency of product).To date, Lion Nathan’s systematic taste profiling systems have ensured all Beck’s brewed locally is absolutely consistent with the ideal Beck’s formulation and taste profile.

So why the beer would taste different? According to Bill Taylor, “Maybe the drinkers aren’t used to drinking fresh European beer. A beer that is a bit older can sometimes have a deeper flavour, less crisp, slightly oxidized taste profile the customer may have become accustomed to. In the end it’s an emotional response based on customer’s desire for authenticity. Beer drinkers have the right to choice and are entitled to buy what they want, but price doesn’t reflect how much it costs to produce.”

The Malt Shovel Brewery has been making Kirin Ichiban for a few years now after their James Squires Amber Ale began to be brewed at the Tooheys Plant in XXXXX, and a ‘gap appeared in the production/bottling run schedule allowing the Japanese dry lager to take up the slack. As Chuck Hahn explains it hasn’t been totally smooth sailing and adjustments have to be made, not a pleasant thought with the summer season upon us. “It takes up all my tanks for a month. The secondary fermentation needs to be held at 8 degrees for 10 days and cuts back our capacity leading to brew house inefficiency. Plus, it costs me a $1000 a month to send back samples!”

We asked Jamie Cook, General Manager Premium & Specialty Beer of Foster Australia about brewing InBev favourite Stella Artois here in the Abbotsford, Victoria brewhouse. "Foster's Australia has been brewing Stella Artois draught for over 10 years, and we recently moved to local production of Stella Artois in pack.” Foster’s Australia moved to local production for two main reasons: First, brewing locally means we can deliver to consumers the best tasting, freshest Stella Artois available. Second, local production enables us to keep up with continued growth in consumer demand." Producing Stella Artois locally delivers to consumers the best tasting, freshest Stella Artois available. Foster's Australia has been producing Stella Artois draught for over 10 years. The same brew that is used in draught beer is used in Stella Artois in pack, so there is guaranteed taste consistency. The same brewing recipe is used locally as the imported product. Any noticeable difference in taste between previously imported and locally produced beer is because you are now being delivered fresher beer. Local production means we can keep up with consumer demand.

To finish up, I think the days are numbered for big breweries around the world to import their beer, and the ones that do will remain expensive and hard to find. A major plus for beer vs. wine debates is the fact you can relocate a brewery with relative ease. Water can be chemically altered to replicate the taste of any city in the world, while malts, hops and yeast can either be shipped cost effectively or reproduced locally.

Michael Comerton, The Words, Pictures and Directions Guy for Matilda Bay Brewing Co., was also a former employee of Guinness in Ireland. He related an interesting situation that arose for imported Guinness to the USA town of Denver which became known as ‘The Denver Effect’. The basic problem was that the atmospheric pressure in Denver is low due to the high altitude causes the stout to come out of the tap differently frothing (foaming) up all over the place. Now the gas in the Guinness kegs is a mix of nitrogen and carbon dioxide to give it that creamy dense head on the beer but because of the frothing, the gas mixed had to be altered. An interesting titbit to help us understand that local conditions can dramatically change your beer

Thursday, November 17, 2005

Cascade Brewery

We’ve strummed our fingers and tapped our toes awaiting the big announcement from Cascade Brewery. A quick jaunt to Old Hobart town revealed all the information required for me to give our readers the latest scoop from Australia’s oldest brewery. An enormous amount of effort has gone into shaping the future direction of the brewery to enable its proud tradition to continue in an ultra competitive premium/boutique beer market. But you’ve been waiting long enough, so without further ado here goes.

Beer product development requires the use of traditional brewing methods with the freshest local ingredients that are readily available at a reasonable price. And if you’re fortunate enough to have a rich and colourful history as is the case with Cascade Brewery, then use that background to infuse some local pride and product loyalty into the mix. “The history of the Cascade Brewery Co is something we are immensely proud of and we’re happy to be honouring Peter Degraves for his vision over 180 years ago,” said Dominic Baker, General Manager, Cascade Brewery Co. Degraves fostered a legacy, built from his commitment to consistency, purity and quality, and Cascade continues his passion today. Cascade Premium Lager and Cascade Premium Light showcase the perfection of fine Tasmanian ingredients when handled by expert brewers.

The newly released beers have been re-named the Degraves Collection, which groups together Pale Ale, Stout and newcomers Amber Ale and Blonde wheat paying tribute to Cascade’s highly successful seasonal beer favourites that are now permanently available. Each beer has its own unique story, inspired by the characters that have been a part of Cascade’s colourful and rich past. Gone are the four packs, and replaced with traditional 6-packs at a very reasonable price, allowing punters to have a go at these new products without spending a fortune.

Cascade Blonde is a re-jigged version of Summer Blonde from the Four Seasons collection According to Head Brewer Max Bursom “We’ve instilled more wheat to the wheat/barley mix resulting in lighter, clean, crisp ale with passion fruit tartness and a delicate back palate bitterness which should please females and the younger beer enthusiasts.” Legend has it that this style was inspired by a local fair haired barmaid famous for being zesty and sassy whose picture adorns the label.

The exclusion of Cascade Pale Ale would have caused a revolution in Van Demens land as ‘Pale’, as the locals call it, has been a part of the brewery since the 1850’s. Tradition has it that the flavour must be big and bold with a clean hop finish on the back palate and just a hint of fruitiness from the ale yeast .In recognition of its historical importance, Cascade Pale Ale received the honour of having the famous brewery façade on the label.

Cascade Amber Ale is the newest recruit to the Degraves Collection and enters an already crowded small brewery favoured style category. A blend of three malts to drive the flavour profile, it’s a pleasant well balanced drop with hints of toffee and caramel. It’s smooth and refreshing, rather than going for a rich heavy amber style. The character on the label is Jim Stoner who invited locals for a free beer during the depression if they brought their own drinking vessels. Understandably, large jam tins were a favourite ‘glass’.

I’ve often mentioned to fellow beer enthusiasts that Cascade Stout is a real sleeper beer that often falls below the radar screen. A deep rich creamy brew with a slightly nutty roasted flavour, and pleasant bitter coffee laced finish. On the label is another local character, Fatty Appleton who was famous for his ability to carry two firkin kegs under his arms that came in handy when crowd control issues arose.

No self respecting report about Cascade Brewery would be complete without a mention of their newly renovated visitor centre including their spectacular botanical gardens. According to Baker, ““Visitors to Tasmania have long been seeking out the Cascade Brewery, and we’ve now improved the experience. A complete refurbishment of the popular Visitor Centre now boasts a spectacular extension with a view to Mt Wellington, and a new bar that has the complete suite of Cascade beers on tap, enabling visitors to sample the range. Cascade’s rich history can also be further explored with memorabilia on display. Our botanic style gardens, yielding some unique and rare flora species, have also been regenerated to ensure its historical significance is retained,” added Dominic. “It’s really is one of the most picturesque historical sites in the country.”

Top Notch

As the Spring Racing Carnival has concluded and we wind the turn towards the holidays, it’s a good chance to see what the Australian premium beer market will offer us for the silly season. Odds are good that the competition will be fierce as the premium beer ‘yearling’ has shown good form on a slow track all year. Look for value this season both in the bar and the bottle shop, but be willing to take long shot for pure enjoyment; life’s to short to be entirely driven by the almighty dollar.

Down in the Apple Isle the ‘Beer Wars’ continues like a family feud. This real life North vs. South conflict has intensified with J. Boag & Son to the north expanding their brewery and announcing a new beer for the mainland – Boags Draught. While Cascade to the south continues to go from strength to strength with their Four Seasons specialty beers with Summer Blonde making its third seasonal appearance, and Cascade Premium Light continues to hold the title of premium light beer of choice on the market.

Strong sales growth of its premium beers has led J. Boag & Son to invest in a major expansion program which will double the capacity of the Launceston Brewery
The first stage of the expansion was to install a new $15million high speed packaging line, completed in October. The addition of this new bottling line has enabled J. Boag & Son to launch their oldest brand, Boag’s Draught nationally. Director Lyndon Adams, said, “In the last six years our sales have doubled with the phenomenal growth led by James Boag’s Premium, which is now Australia’s second largest premium beer brand.” “Our growth has led to the situation where we have outgrown our current facility. Following a review of all possible expansion options open to us, the company felt that maintaining the authentic Tasmanian origin of our brands was critical to our ongoing success, and thus we chose to upgrade our existing brewery in Launceston.”

Meanwhile to the south, Cascade continues to score goals with their Four Season range of beers. Created especially for the Australian Summer, Cascade Summer Blonde is a refreshing and zesty blonde wheat beer using the freshest wheat, hops and pure soft water from the slopes of Mount Wellington. The master brewers at Tasmania’s Cascade Brewery have used the highest-grade wheat and barley to ensure the beer is pure and clear. Cascade hops are used to give the beer its distinctive citric aroma and zesty palate.

Back on the mainland, Carlton & United Beverages has launched an advertising campaign with their premier premium beer Crown Lager. Crown Lager is one of Australia’s most iconic brands, launched in 1953, and continues to outsell any other premium beer on the market. The new Crown Lager campaign, created by George Patterson Partners Melbourne, taps into Australians’ positive outlook on life through a combination of still lifestyle images and temp-mort sequences. The photographic images featured in the campaign are in fact ‘real’ people (the majority provided direct from Foster’s employees’ personal photo albums) celebrating the memorable, the important, the exhilarating and the fun moments because as the ad says… “There’s a lot in life to celebrate”.

Matilda Bay Brewing Company has launched their latest specialty beer Roof Top Red Lager. The name "Rooftop Red Lager" gets its inspiration from Paul Kelly's song 'From a 727' where he sings about looking over the roofs of Sydney from a plane. As you approach Sydney’s Kingsford-Smith airport from the west, you fly over areas of Balmain and Leichhardt. Many of the traditional homes of these areas have red tiled or red corrugated iron roofs. Rooftop Red Lager’s distinctive red hue and full, refreshing flavour are created by small-batch brewing using specially selected and lightly-toasted carared and melanoidin malts. The aromatic Hersbrucker hop - added to the kettle late in the boil - softens and balances Rooftop’s malts to deliver a smooth, delicate palate rich with hints of toffee and caramel. Rooftop Red Lager is currently available in selected outlets in Sydney, Melbourne and Perth, and with that terrific red hue should put a rosy red glow on all beer loving Santas.

Speaking of Sydney, Tooheys Australia has put their efforts behind the Hahn Premium and Hahn Premium Light brands and the Hillross Australian Golf Tournament. Sign up over the net at www.hahn.golf.com.au to compete for the ultimate golf experience. The competition offers the opportunity for four mates to attend and compete in the Pro-Am tournament, attend the champion’s cocktail party, a free coaching clinic and a signed golf bag. The Hahn beers will also sponsor a National Pub Golf Championship which will involve 4,200 competitors on 42 golf courses around Australia. Entry is simple, requiring contestants to purchase 9 middies or stubbies of Hahn Premium or Hahn Premium Light over a four week period at participating pubs and clubs. Each venue will hold a draw to select their 4 golfers.

The Malt Shovel Brewery has enjoyed continued success with winter and summer limited release brews, and their latest drop is no exception. James Squire Golden Ale has been brewed as a real flavoursome quaffing beer for the forecast long hot summer months ahead. Golden Ale follows the release of James Squire Australian Strong Ale this winter and James Squire Colonial Wheat Beer last summer.” Golden Ale is a lighter bodied beer with an alcohol content of 4.5%. Fresh toasted grains of Barley and Wheat give it a rich orange-amber colour and the pleasing tropical stone fruit aroma comes from the new season Amarillo hops,” said Head Brewer, Doug Donelan. "Often thought of as an English-style summer beer, this brew demands cold fermentation. It has a restrained bitter finish, mild carbonation, a firm head and a dry cracking finish and is an ideal thirst quenching session beer,” added Donelan.

As a special bonus for beer lovers, Golden Ale will also be available on tap at the James Squire Brewhouse 115 Russell Street, Melbourne and at the James Squire Brewhouse King Street Wharf, Sydney. The Malt Shovel Brewers are passionate about their handcrafted beers and are committed to educate discerning drinkers to the delights of matching quality beer and fine food. "Golden Ale would make a great accompaniment for fresh cold prawns, chicken Caesar salad, white-bait fritters, laksa or marguerita pizza,” said Brewmaster, Chuck Hahn.

No review of Australian premium beers would be complete without a look at what’s happening at Adelaide’s Coopers Brewery. We were pleased to discover their annual launch of their Vintage Ale will continue in 2004, and the release of a new mid-strength ale.

The 2004 Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale, described by Coopers brewers as the best yet, has a hefty 7.5% alcohol by volume and is expected to develop a more complex and interesting flavour for up to two years. Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale was first released in 1998 and was sold out within five days .Other brews followed in 1999, 2000, 2002 and now 2004, with each brew becoming a collector’s item. Some 5000 cases of the 2004 Coopers Extra Strong Vintage Ale, about 25% of the total brew, are being sent to the US to meet orders from American wholesalers. Coopers Chairman and Marketing Director, Mr Glenn Cooper, said that 2004 Vintage Ale had been ordered by a number of exclusive restaurants in the US, including Rubicon in San Francisco, jointly owned by actors Robin Williams and Robert de Niro and film producer Francis Ford Coppola.

Coopers Brewery has launched a new mid-strength premium beer to its range of premium quality, naturally conditioned ales .Coopers Mild Ale is a full flavoured ale with an alcohol content of 3.5%, designed to meet the growing demand Australia-wide for mid-strength beers. Coopers Managing Director and Chief Brewer, Dr Tim Cooper, said “Mild Ale is a smooth, easy-drinking ale that was very similar in flavour profile to Coopers Pale Ale and Sparkling Ale, but slightly softer.” Dr Cooper added “The idea was first conceived about two years ago when a number of publicans at a trade day suggested that Coopers look at developing a lighter brew to cater for the demand for flavour, but with lower alcohol. We experimented with a number of different brews last year to try and find the right balance between malt and hop characters,” he said. “We then tested what is now known as Mild Ale in market conditions before looking for an appropriate name.”Dr Cooper went on to say “Mild Ale is a distinctive category of ale in England, created in the nineteenth century as a restorative for labourers and heavy manual workers. It remains popular in the Midlands and Northwest of England, as a beer full in flavour but with a slightly lower alcohol content and hop bitterness. Mild Ale is the product of brewing with a selection of barley and wheat malt and with no added sugar,” he said. “This traditional brewing approach provides the smooth malt character which is balanced by a triple hopping with Pride of Ringwood and Saaz hops. “It is fermented similarly to its stablemates, Pale Ale and Sparkling Ale, with the customary secondary fermentation in the bottle and can.”

Mercs Own Peach Ale

Mention ‘Aussie Dancing Guy’ and everyone knows you’re referring to Paul Mercurio. Since tapping his way into our hearts in Strictly Ballroom, he has continued to dazzle us with his footwork in The Full Monty and now a judge on the hit TV show “Dancing with the Stars.’ But many would be surprised that this gifted choreographer is also a passionate brewer, now with his own range of beers called Merc’s Own, the first being a Peach Ale.

Paul began brewing 17 years ago after receiving a home brew kit as an anniversary gift from his wife and fellow dancer Andrea. “Back in ’87 Coopers beer was expensive and with poverty brought experience as I practiced the craft in my laundry room. I’ve always developed a bit of a beer club with the crew I’m working with, even back to the early days at the Green Room at the Sydney Opera House.”

So why brew a peach beer I hear you ask? “In the immortal words of Scott Hasling (Strictly Ballroom) I just want to dance to my own steps” I’m a risk taker, and I love a challenge. The idea for a peach ale came from an old home brew recipe that I tweaked a bit to pull the recipe into shape. The peach juice plus the German Tettnanger aromatic hop provide a pleasant spiciness on the palate. Besides, fruit-based ales are steeped in tradition and I couldn’t get my hands on any apricot juice at the time of brewing!” Seriously, it’s my beer; I do all the work including the cleaning up. I could have left it to someone else, but that’s not taking responsibility for my own work. I have personally handled every one of the 3780 bottles in the batch, and proud of it.”

So what inspired him to go down the path of a commercial beer range? “Stupidity (he laughed), since a young age I’ve tried to fulfil my dreams. I’m passionate about food (he cures his own brand of smoked beef brisket), flavour, and beer. I take my roles of artist, actor, dancer, father, and brewer very seriously. I’d also like to make some money out of this; idle actors need an income like everyone else so why not work hard at the things you enjoy.”

Merc’s Own Peach Ale is a refreshing drop, surprisingly subtle fruitiness without excessive sweetness. The ale has a champagne or white peach appearance with a white creamy head. Bottle conditioned and naturally carbonated with no additives or preservatives in the blend. The aroma is a delicate balance of malt and fruit characters without the expected overpowering tartness. The peach ale has a fruity, spicy flavour with mild back palate bitterness. The fruitiness is more dominant as the beer warms a little. Recommended serve at 4C.with a fresh fruit salad and cream or BBQ seafood.