European Beer Review ‘08

Almost all of us have an ancestral link to Europe, and with our multicultural population, nearly every country is included. And as here in Australia they have their own version of ‘Fosters’ to meet the local population’s unquenchable demand for premium lager. So when we have a taste of the homeland you have two choices, either purchase their major multinational brewery products when on special or explore unknown varieties and styles at your local specialist epicurean bottle shops. Both have merits and drawbacks but worthy of your attention.

No two nations better exemplify this beer culture duopoly than Belgium, and Germany. Both have brewing histories dating back to the Middle Ages. Both have been affected by conflicts between church and state. And both nations introduced new flavours and styles of beer that continue to demonstrate popularity today.

Belgian Beer

God bless the persecuted monks who fled France during the revolution. Those ‘on the run’ religious refugees behind closed monestary doors began to brew exclusively for fellow monks beer described as "dark and sweet”And due to the fertile fields of the Flanders region began the art of ‘farmhouse brewing’ including lambic fruit beers.The first Trappist brewery in Belgium (Westmalle) officially began operation in 1836. The current Trappist producers are Achel, Chimay, Koningshoeven (the Netherlands), Orval, Rochefort, Westmalle, and Westvleteren. Best-known brand of Abbey beer is Inbev's Leffe. Others include Grimbergen, Tripel Karmeliet, Maredsous, Watou, Saint-Feuillien, Floreffe, and Val-Dieu.(308)

With approximately 125 breweries in Belgium, only Germany, France and the United Kingdom are home to more breweries in Europe. Beer production in Belgium is now dominated by Inbev and by the time of this printing, Anheuser-Busch (A-B) and InBev will have combined to forge the largest brewing conglomerate in the world after the US brewer accepted a sweetened $53.5 billion takeover offer. Anheuser-Busch InBev (A-BI), as the new group will be called, will surpass SABMiller as the number one seller of alcoholic beverages when the acquisition is completed later this year, with 17 per cent of the global market. The takeover brings together the makers of Budweiser, Stella Artois and Beck's to create the world's largest brewer, as well as the third-largest consumer products company.

So if you vote with your feet for the premium lager, Stells Artois wins hands down. InBev’s Stella Artois was first brewed as a Christmas beer in 1926, and was so popular that it became an all year round beer. The name ‘stella’ also comes from the Latin word for star, probably linked to the traditional star atop the Christmas tree

According to Adam Thomas from Pervis Fine Wines in Melbourne “We are seeing a big jump in Fruit beers for the spring season as a viable alternative to wine spritzers and RTD’s. The big Belgian beers like Rochford 10 and Chimay Blue have been very popular for winter, but are now giving way to lambics like Lindemens Geuze, Cassis and Peach.. Beers with berries are all the go.”

Lambic beers fermentation, is produced by exposure to the wild yeasts and bacteria that are said to be native to the Senne valley, in which Brussels lies. The beer then undergoes a long aging period ranging from three to six months (considered “young”) to two or three years for mature. It is this unusual process which gives the beer its distinctive flavor: dry, vinous, and cidery, with a slightly sour aftertaste.

Although Lambics flavoured with fruits such as raspberries (Framboise) or cherries (Kriek) are better known, the Lambic connoisseur’s choice will be Gueuze—the noblest of Lambic styles. A traditional dry Gueuze has no fruit flavouring and will be tart, sour, and naturally effervescent. A typical Gueuze will be a blend of one, two, and three year-old Lambic beers from ancient oak vessels which are a breeding ground for the colonies of bacteria strains that give Gueuze its sour character

The Lindemans family farm in Vlezenbeek near Brussels began Lambic brewing as a winter activity, when less farm work was required. The farm produced wheat and barley, the raw materials of the Lambic. Due to the growing success of the Lambic, the brewery became more important and consequently, in 1930, the farm-activities were stopped. It was in that year that they started the production of Geuze and Kriek. The Framboise was launched in 1980 and due to the success of the fruit-beers, they created 2 new beers: Cassis (black current beer) in 1986 and Pecheresse (peach beer) in 1987.

Lindemans Cuvée René Gueuze Lambic. Has a rich golden hue with yeasty sourdough aromatics. Medium dry yet full bodied with hints of tart lemon rind, nuts, and wheat toast. Finishes with a long, tart citrus rind and mineral fade.
From George Stephanopolous General Manager BID Melbourne Office:

With the Australian market now being exposed to such an array of beer styles from around the world, (predominantly Belgium, Germany and U.K), beer pallets have evolved and are craving for new and exciting styles, complexities and sensations from beer. Hence the growth in interest of Lambic beers, (now commonly sought as an alternative to RTD’s), brewed with natural ingredients and fruits such as raspberry, sour cherries, peaches and forest berries. Styles like Lambic fruit beers are growing in awareness and will offer a great alternative through the coming months of summer in Australia as people discover their full, fresh and vibrant flavour.

Trappist brewery Rochefort (Brasserie de Rochefort) produces three ales:
Rochefort 6 (red cap, brown beer, 7.5% A/V. Rochefort 8 (green cap, brown beer, 9.2% ABV).Rochefort 10 (blue cap, dark beer, 11.3% A/V). Reddish-brown colour, with a very compact head and an aroma of figs. It is very similar to 6 and 8, but with intense complex malt, smoke, wood, roasted quality and great texture.


German beer

Germany is the birthplace of lagers and also employed the bounty of the harvest to create seasonal wheat beers as well. But rather than religious persecution, there drawback was government intervention and ownership. German brewers were bound by adherence to the Reinheitsgebot ("purity order") dating from 1516 (and most recently updated in the Vorläufiges Biergesetz of 1993), according to which the only allowed ingredients of beer are water, hops and barley-malt. This law also requires that beers not using only barley-malt (such as wheat and rye) must be top-fermented. Beer has become part of Germany. There’s around 1,300 breweries in Germany, more than in any other country except the United States (approx. 1,500)

The highest density of breweries in the world is found near the city of Bamberg, in the Franconia region of Bavaria. The Benedictine abbey Weihenstephan brewery (established in 725) is reputedly the oldest existing brewery in the world (brewing since 1040). Weihenstephan occupies an exalted site atop Weihenstephan Hill in the Bavarian city of Freising, surrounded by the comparatively still very young Weihenstephan science centre of the Technical University of Munich. Three varieties are available here in Australia worth having a go at are: Vitus: A light-coloured, spicy single-bock wheat beer extra long and cold storage in the monastery cellars making this single-bock a really full bodied with a distinctive mouthfeel. Alcohol content: 7.7% A/V. Hefe-Weissbier; naturally cloudy wheat beer with its wonderful yeasty fragrance and a taste of banana and clove. Alcohol content: 5.4%A/V. Hefe-Weissbier Dunkel: supple, malty and mellow dark wheat beer 5.3% A/V

Erdinger calls itself the world's largest wheat beer brewery. It was founded in 1886 by Johann Kienle, and its beer is the best-known culinary product of the city. Currently, there are nine varieties available:The three best to have a sample of are:Weisbier- a golden cloudy wheat beer 5.3%A/V, Dunkel- a dark brown type 5.6%A/V, ans Kristallklar- a filtered Weisbier5.3% A/V.

Beck’s has savoured success with around 20% value growth outstripping the international premium segment in 2006 when compared with a year ago. It is the number one German beer in the world and sold 7.5 million hectolitres in2007. Beck’s grown by 4.3% (volume) and has achieved premium growth of 13% outside its home market. Beck’s arrived in Australia in 1906 and became their largest buyer within 3 years. The success of Beck’s is based on a few important factors. An emphasis on being a German ‘spitzen Pilsener von Welt” or ‘world class premium pilsener, strict adherence to the German Purity Law, and the inclusion of Hallertau hops of Bavaria, considered by some to be the finest pils hops in the world. Beck’s has clean crisp taste with plenty of back bitterness and a full rich flavour.


English Beer

Then there is English beer, aah the Motherland, whose mere mention begins contradiction, controversy, and the exception to the rule. To start, they don’t have a national lager, and rather than religious or governmental influence, they’re beer customs has evolved from the counterculture era’s CAMRA the campaign for real ale led by now deceased ‘Beer Guru’ Michael Jackson. Aussie’s Barons Brewing head brewer Richard Adamsons was recently in England to assist Danish brewer Mikkel Borg Bjergso create Vikings’ Return, a 4.5% ABV amber ale for J.D.Wetherspoons’ International Beer Festival. He was able to provide the latest report from the British bar. “The most popular lagers on tap are Carlsberg (DEN), Stella (BEL) and Fosters (AUS), but after that it’s the real ales with emphasis on English bitters and ales. Fullers, Marsden, Hobgoblin and Samuel Smith are getting a good nudge by the locals.

Fuller’s London Pride is the flagship brand of Fullers Brewery. Its cask version holds the No.3 position in the UK's premium ale sector and London Pride has doubled its sales over the last five years. A rich, malty flavour, countered with a balance of hops (a mix of Target, Challenger and Northdown varieties), with a slightly fruity finish. 4.7% A/V

Fuller's E.S.B. is a liquid legend; the cask version has been voted Champion Beer of Britain three times. Full, robust, chestnut-coloured ale, ESB has a rich maltiness that gives way to a nice hop after taste. A clean beer that is easy to drink - often too easy and too often.5.9 % A/V

According to the Beer Importers, traditional English brown ale Old Speckled Hen has demonstrated impressive sales figures on tap and in the shops. Rich golden amber ale with warming red tones, Old Speckled Hen is fruity on the nose with rich malty undertones, toffee like flavour with good back bitterness at the back of the gob. The finish is sweet without being cloying and a good dry finish.