Asian Beer Review ‘08

The eyes of the world have been turned towards Asia recently, particularly China with the Olympics. Two things have impressed us most, their modernisation and a heritage of traditional values. This region has experienced dramatic change in the past few decades and no better exemplified than in their beer industry.

The two superpowers of the region China and Japan began brewing at the turn of the 20th century, with a constant clashing of tradition vs. modernisation. Chinese brewing history reads like a corporate business plan with international development (Germany), overseas acquisition (Japan), government supervision (Nationalist Govt.) and seizure (People’s Party of China) and finally privatisation including merger with other breweries to create Tsingtao Brewing.

But progress has come at a cost.Tsingtao Beer has long advertised as being "brewed with mineral water from the Laoshan Spring", renowned for the absolute purity of the water, contributing to its characteristic flavour; however, this now applies only to beer produced in Qingdao,. Originally, Tsingtao Beer was brewed in accordance with the German Purity Law of 1516 but after privatization the recipe changed, so that today Tsingtao beer, like many other beers made in China, contains a proportion of the less-expensive rice as an adjunct in the mash

China may have overtaken the US as the world's biggest beer market besides boasting the largest population on earth. Like most beer drinking nations, China’s consumption is particularly strong in urban areas among 25-45 year olds. Chinese consumers have a very strong affinity with domestic brands, which account for an estimated 96 per cent of all beer consumed, But fuelled by a recent boom in pubs and bars, premium beer is the fastest growing sector, increasing by 34 per cent in 2002 alone.

According to Peter Nixon, Business Manager Marketing for Dan Murphy’s, Asian beer consumption here in Australia follows similar tends. “We are seeing growth across the entire Asian beer category Chinese, Japanese and Indian alike. This is in line with all imported & premium beer growth. Melbourne and Sydney sales are highest followed by other capital cities with no real disproportion in line with population base. It’s the flavour and style profiles that appeal to the Australian palate and climate

Another player is Shanghai Lager that has adhered to traditional recipes of Shanghai China since 1936, produces a classic Asian lager brewed from rice. This develops the crystal clean palate and ultimate refreshment the Chinese relish in their beer. Pale straw in colour, Shanghai has a light and delicate in aroma, crisp and refreshing, with balanced bitterness and refreshing finish. The beer is a perfect companion to hot and spicy dishes, such as Szechuan, as the beer will cleanse the palate after each bite.

The history of modern brewing in Japan dates back to1869 when the government set up a brewery on the Northern island of Hokkaido and a decade later were brewing Sapporo Lager. At one time there were several dozen breweries around Japan including the ‘big 4’ Sapporo, Japan, Osaka (Asahi Brewery), and Kirin. The fierce battle for market supremacy in the early 1900’s led to the Japan Brewing Company merging with Sapporo. After the war, the DaiNippon Beer Company divided into two companies Nippon/ Sapporo and Asahi. The three continue to battle worldwide to be ‘champion Japanese beer’.

If one aspect of brewing can be attributed to Japan it would have to be the ‘Dry’ lager style. To create this drying effect, the mash is brewed at a lower temperature to soak up every drop of residual sugars that become alcohol. The result desired requires an extraction process to get only the first liquid run- off from the sweet wort then a long slow fermentation.

Asahi Super Dry is Japan’s original, traditionally brewed, super dry beer. Rich in flavour it cuts to a clean, crisp edge. It has a delicate, yet rich, full-flavoured body and refreshing, dry aftertaste. Asahi is a super premium Japanese beer with unisex appeal and a distinctive smooth character that is easy to drink. Asahi’s volume share of the Asian beer market isn’t huge; however it is growing at a rapid pace. Ranked in the top 20 Premium Imports, it appeals to urban leading edge consumers. Victoria and New South Wales continue to be the two key Asahi markets constituting over 80% of total volume.

Sapporo Imported Original Draught Beer has a distinctive silver can exhibiting their high tech outlook to brewing. Using state of the art technology, including a ceramic filtration process, creates a smoother cleaner lager. The sculptured conical shaped steel can releases a golden maize coloured brew with very subtle grainy sweet aroma and taste with a well balanced malt flavour.

Kirin Ichiban, the only Asian beer to be brewed here in Australia at the Malt Shovel brewery in Sydney. Locally brewed in small batches under the supervision of an expert Japanese brewer assures freshness. The Kirin is an ancient mythical beast which foretells the coming of festive and joyful events. The word “ichiban” means “first” in Japan and Kirin uses a First Press Brewing Method where only the first liquid drawn from the mash is used followed by a long fermentation period. The use of noble saaz hops provide a floral aroma that’s complemented by a delicate fruity flavour. Full bodied with subtle sweetness and mild bittering notes, Kirin Ichiban is quickly gaining local support in trendy nightspots.

Indochina and the subcontinent have their own tale to tell but the theme scenario is the same as younger, hipper new moneyed beer drinkers have taken over the bar, club and beer garden scene. Like Australia, they want to be seen with a notable international branded stubby but consume the local brew with their mates.

Chang Beer(1995) brewery, in the district of Bang Ban, Ayutthaya Province, is the top-selling brand in Thailand winning over 60% of market share after a hard market fight with the previously biggest brand Singha. In 2006, the company's market share was 49% of the beer market with genuine brand recognition. The eye-catching green logo of 2 elephants facing one another is immediately recognisable to Thais and foreigners alike. The company also has outstanding distribution and the beer is readily available. In fact, Chang has become more popular than Singha in the Thai market for its low price. At the end of the day, it is the branding of Chang that makes up for a fantastic part of this remarkable appeal. Chang Beer's full bodied, smooth taste is truly expressive of the finest quality natural Ingredients. 5% A/V

Singha Lager (1933) continues to be popular for its light golden flavour. Their 3 brewery locations are based on quality water sources. The Boon Rawd Brewery water supply is pumped from wells deep underground, then activated carbon filtered, sand filtered and treated to meet Singha’s exacting standards. Quality grains and hops sourced from Europe and Australia create a yellow-gold in appearance, with a distinctly rich flavour. Singha Lager demonstrates strong hop characters and notes of lemons, flowers and cinnamon. The beer has a fresh and surprisingly biscuity malt character with a rather gentle nudge of Thai sweetness.

Malaysian beer giant, Tiger Beer is brewed by Asia Pacific Breweries, a joint venture between Heineken NV and Frasers & Neave. It’s obviously the major brand of the brewer and it was first brewed back in the early 1940s. The beer has managed to gain immense popularity throughout the Asian Continent, in particular South East Asia.

Tiger Beer is a dry-hopped beer with a rather rich taste. It’s ideal for a long drinking session. My very first reaction was it tasted a bit strong, but after a few large sips, my taste buds eventually got used to the friendly invasion of quality hops and the overly strong taste replaced with a nice and rich one, with a lasting bigger finish. In short, it’s a highly refreshing beer and goes nicely with food, particularly spicy and peppery dishes.

Last month, Australian wine and beer group Foster's exited the Asian brewing business with the US$225 million sale of its operations in Vietnam and India. The firm's Vietnam breweries and local brands will go to Asia Pacific Breweries for US$105 million, and its Indian business including the Foster's brand will be taken on by SABMiller for US$120 million. APB operates 27 breweries in 10 countries in the Asia-Pacific. The Indochina market, which includes Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia, has accounted for more than 40 per cent of its earnings in the past three years, the company said. Profit before interest and tax from this region increased by 20 per cent last year.

333 Premium Export Beer or Ba Ba Ba as the Vietnamese pronounce it is a popular rice lager sold around South East Asia and exported to France, the USA and Australia. The beer dates back to 1893 when they acquired the German Label "33” and during the 1970’s the extra 3 was added to its name. The beer is produced by Beer Saigon which doesn’t use a lot of the preservative chemicals used as a lot of the other Asian beers, making it much crisper and easer on the head the next morning. The beer has a 5.3 percent alcohol reading so it gives quiet a kick, especially in the hot Vietnamese sun.

On the sub continent, we viewed the Indian 20 x 20 Cricket and marvelled at their wealth and splendour everywhere you looked, a Kingfisher logo or billboard appeared. Kingfisher lager is a great beer and worthy of your indulgence. A nice golden amber colour with white creamy head, Kingfisher is well balanced malt character and good solid back bitterness. As with any Asian beer, serve it icy cold, sit back, and enjoy.

Another beer from India making an impact on the Aussie market is Taj Mahal Premium brewed by United Breweries in Bangalore. Taj Mahal (meaning the "best of buildings") is dedicated to the famous monument built in 1648. Taj Mahal Premium is a clear amber lager with a very delicate light hop flavour. The crisp hop bitter aftertaste makes this brew a perfect match with spicy foods.

And when is an Asian beer not an Asian beer, when it’s produced here in Australia. Lucky Beer is a highly distinctive concept with their unique ‘laughing Buddha’ bottle. An Asian influenced lager using only 100% Australian premium natural ingredients. Another unique trend is to offer Lucky Beer with a slice of ginger at the bar. They say that rubbing Buddha’s tummy brings you good luck, so why not get a bottle and see for yourself.

Asian Sensations

There’s no surprise to me on the increased interest and sales of Asian beers. Walk down any ‘foodie street’ in Australia and you’ll experience a plethora of Asian take away shops, restaurants, and supermarkets dominating the horizon. The wafts of steam with exotic spices, tandoori ovens on the go, and flamed hot woks tossing fresh fragrant goodies in the air are a far cry from the traditional roast and three veg dinners of the past. We have always embraced ethnic diversification, and with beer it’s no different. The Asian influence in the past decade has created a distinctive palate change with lighter, dryer lagers that blend better with sashimi than salami. A fiery curry or chilli and coriander stir fry require extra hopped pale ales or well bittered pilseners. As a bonus, the lighter lagers also appeal to ladies looking for a pilsener with less of a bitterness punch. Now I’m sure there are a few blokes scratching their heads while they sip their middies and pots wondering where I’m coming from. But the reality is that in a very depressed beer market, imported beers have shown a slight increase of 6% in sales So let’s take a quick tour of the Asian beers on the market that are gaining an undercurrent support at fashionable bars and clubs.

Starting with our closest Asian neighbour, Bintang and Bali holidays at Kuta are as Aussie as a meat pie. Brewed in Jakarta, their umbrellas and roadside advertisements are as Bali as a massage on the beach and we’re starting to see those brollies on fashionable big city streets here in Australia. The Dutch influence on the region goes back to Colonial times and nowhere is it more apparent than in their brewing. Characterised by a hoppy bitterness with a grainy malty aroma, the Dutch pilsener lagers embrace the Asian light dry finish.

For decades Aussies have discovered the Singapore Tiger beer while visiting or waiting for a flight. In fact, it was the RAF pilots stationed at Butterworth AFB that first introduced me to this golden drop with a sweet caramel aroma and clean crisp flavour over twenty years ago. As of January brewery giant Heineken has become the sole importer and distributor in Australia. A comprehensive marketing program will invest over $5 million dollars over the next three years focusing on leading edge bars, fine dining, and traditional targeted areas within the off premise. Other promotions include sponsorship of the Shaolin Monks in March, hosting a design event/conference plus book launch of graphic artists hosted by Diesel of Italy in April, Tsubi at Mercedes Fashion Week in May, plus Tiger Nights in Sydney and Melbourne. According to Market Development Manager Craig Blesson, “With the Australian premium beer market thriving, particularly the imported segment, Australia offers an exciting opportunity for Tiger Beer to emulate its success across Asia.”

The Thai Singha Lager from the Boon Rawd Brewery has been around since 1933 and continues to be popular for its light golden flavour. Now anyone who’s been to Thailand knows that pure drinking water is rarer that 24 carat gold, and their 3 brewery locations are based on quality water sources that are thoroughly checked to make certain of its correct composition and meets brewing standards. The clear water used by Boon Rawd Brewery is pumped from wells deep underground. It is activated carbon filtered, sand filtered and treated to meet Singha standards of brewing water. Quality grains and hops sourced from Europe and Australia help create this delightful drop. Another beer from Southeast Asia proving very popular in Asian cafes around Australia is 333 Premium Export Beer from Vietnam. Its light smooth finish is Perfect for the Asian palate, and works well for younger and female Australians as well.

The history of modern brewing in Japan is as old as Australia. The government set up a brewery back in 1869 on the Northern island of Hokkaido and a decade later were brewing Sapporo Lager. At one time there were several dozen breweries around Japan including the ‘big 4’ Sapporo, Japan, Osaka (Asahi Brewery), and Kirin. The fierce battle for market supremacy in the early 1900’s led to the Japan Brewing Company merging with Sapporo. After the war, the DaiNippon Beer Company divided into two companies Nippon ( Sapporo) and Asahi. The three continue to battle worldwide to be ‘champion Japanese beer’.

If one aspect of brewing can be attributed to Japan it would have to be the ‘Dry’ lager style. To create this drying effect, the mash is brewed at a lower temperature to soak up every drop of residual sugars that become alcohol. The result desired requires an extraction process to get only the first liquid run- off from the sweet wort then a long slow fermentation.

Sapporo Imported Original Draught Beer has a distinctive 650 ml silver can exhibiting their high tech outlook to brewing. Using state of the art technology, including a ceramic filtration process, creates a smoother cleaner lager. The sculptured conical shaped steel can releases a golden maize coloured brew with very subtle grainy sweet aroma and taste with a well balanced malt flavour.

Asahi’s volume share of the Asian beer market isn’t huge; however it is growing at a rapid pace. Ranked in the top 20 Premium Imports, it appeals to urban leading edge consumers. Victoria and New South Wales continue to be the two key Asahi markets constituting over 80% of total volume. Due to significant signs of growth and demand over the last few years, CUB will be launching Asahi Draught in selected venues in Melbourne and Sydney from April. Asahi is a traditionally brewed Japanese dry beer, rich and full flavoured with a refreshing dry after taste. It is the perfect accompaniment to Asia and spicy foods.

The last but not least of Japanese beers is Kirin Ichiban, the only Asian beer to be brewed here in Australia at the Malt Shovel brewery in Sydney. Locally brewed in small batches under the supervision of an expert Japanese brewer assures freshness. The Kirin is an ancient mythical beast which foretells the coming of festive and joyful events. The word “ichiban” means “first” in Japan and Kirin uses a First Press Brewing Method where only the first liquid drawn from the mash is used followed by a long fermentation period. The use of noble saaz hops provide a floral aroma that’s complemented by a delicate fruity flavour. Full bodied with subtle sweetness and mild bittering notes, Kirin Ichiban is quickly gaining local support in trendy nightspots.

No report on Asia would be complete without a glance at the sub continent, and when visiting any Indian restaurant in Australia, I’ll bet my house on the fact you can order a Kingfisher lager to soothe than fiery vindaloo. Thankfully, it’s a great beer and worthy of your indulgence. A nice golden amber colour with white creamy head, Kingfisher is well balanced malt character and good solid back bitterness. As with any Asian beer, serve it icy cold, sit back, and enjoy.