Saturday, April 17, 2004

Asian Sensations

There’s no surprise to me on the increased interest and sales of Asian beers. Walk down any ‘foodie street’ in Australia and you’ll experience a plethora of Asian take away shops, restaurants, and supermarkets dominating the horizon. The wafts of steam with exotic spices, tandoori ovens on the go, and flamed hot woks tossing fresh fragrant goodies in the air are a far cry from the traditional roast and three veg dinners of the past. We have always embraced ethnic diversification, and with beer it’s no different. The Asian influence in the past decade has created a distinctive palate change with lighter, dryer lagers that blend better with sashimi than salami. A fiery curry or chilli and coriander stir fry require extra hopped pale ales or well bittered pilseners. As a bonus, the lighter lagers also appeal to ladies looking for a pilsener with less of a bitterness punch. Now I’m sure there are a few blokes scratching their heads while they sip their middies and pots wondering where I’m coming from. But the reality is that in a very depressed beer market, imported beers have shown a slight increase of 6% in sales So let’s take a quick tour of the Asian beers on the market that are gaining an undercurrent support at fashionable bars and clubs.

Starting with our closest Asian neighbour, Bintang and Bali holidays at Kuta are as Aussie as a meat pie. Brewed in Jakarta, their umbrellas and roadside advertisements are as Bali as a massage on the beach and we’re starting to see those brollies on fashionable big city streets here in Australia. The Dutch influence on the region goes back to Colonial times and nowhere is it more apparent than in their brewing. Characterised by a hoppy bitterness with a grainy malty aroma, the Dutch pilsener lagers embrace the Asian light dry finish.

For decades Aussies have discovered the Singapore Tiger beer while visiting or waiting for a flight. In fact, it was the RAF pilots stationed at Butterworth AFB that first introduced me to this golden drop with a sweet caramel aroma and clean crisp flavour over twenty years ago. As of January brewery giant Heineken has become the sole importer and distributor in Australia. A comprehensive marketing program will invest over $5 million dollars over the next three years focusing on leading edge bars, fine dining, and traditional targeted areas within the off premise. Other promotions include sponsorship of the Shaolin Monks in March, hosting a design event/conference plus book launch of graphic artists hosted by Diesel of Italy in April, Tsubi at Mercedes Fashion Week in May, plus Tiger Nights in Sydney and Melbourne. According to Market Development Manager Craig Blesson, “With the Australian premium beer market thriving, particularly the imported segment, Australia offers an exciting opportunity for Tiger Beer to emulate its success across Asia.”

The Thai Singha Lager from the Boon Rawd Brewery has been around since 1933 and continues to be popular for its light golden flavour. Now anyone who’s been to Thailand knows that pure drinking water is rarer that 24 carat gold, and their 3 brewery locations are based on quality water sources that are thoroughly checked to make certain of its correct composition and meets brewing standards. The clear water used by Boon Rawd Brewery is pumped from wells deep underground. It is activated carbon filtered, sand filtered and treated to meet Singha standards of brewing water. Quality grains and hops sourced from Europe and Australia help create this delightful drop. Another beer from Southeast Asia proving very popular in Asian cafes around Australia is 333 Premium Export Beer from Vietnam. Its light smooth finish is Perfect for the Asian palate, and works well for younger and female Australians as well.

The history of modern brewing in Japan is as old as Australia. The government set up a brewery back in 1869 on the Northern island of Hokkaido and a decade later were brewing Sapporo Lager. At one time there were several dozen breweries around Japan including the ‘big 4’ Sapporo, Japan, Osaka (Asahi Brewery), and Kirin. The fierce battle for market supremacy in the early 1900’s led to the Japan Brewing Company merging with Sapporo. After the war, the DaiNippon Beer Company divided into two companies Nippon ( Sapporo) and Asahi. The three continue to battle worldwide to be ‘champion Japanese beer’.

If one aspect of brewing can be attributed to Japan it would have to be the ‘Dry’ lager style. To create this drying effect, the mash is brewed at a lower temperature to soak up every drop of residual sugars that become alcohol. The result desired requires an extraction process to get only the first liquid run- off from the sweet wort then a long slow fermentation.

Sapporo Imported Original Draught Beer has a distinctive 650 ml silver can exhibiting their high tech outlook to brewing. Using state of the art technology, including a ceramic filtration process, creates a smoother cleaner lager. The sculptured conical shaped steel can releases a golden maize coloured brew with very subtle grainy sweet aroma and taste with a well balanced malt flavour.

Asahi’s volume share of the Asian beer market isn’t huge; however it is growing at a rapid pace. Ranked in the top 20 Premium Imports, it appeals to urban leading edge consumers. Victoria and New South Wales continue to be the two key Asahi markets constituting over 80% of total volume. Due to significant signs of growth and demand over the last few years, CUB will be launching Asahi Draught in selected venues in Melbourne and Sydney from April. Asahi is a traditionally brewed Japanese dry beer, rich and full flavoured with a refreshing dry after taste. It is the perfect accompaniment to Asia and spicy foods.

The last but not least of Japanese beers is Kirin Ichiban, the only Asian beer to be brewed here in Australia at the Malt Shovel brewery in Sydney. Locally brewed in small batches under the supervision of an expert Japanese brewer assures freshness. The Kirin is an ancient mythical beast which foretells the coming of festive and joyful events. The word “ichiban” means “first” in Japan and Kirin uses a First Press Brewing Method where only the first liquid drawn from the mash is used followed by a long fermentation period. The use of noble saaz hops provide a floral aroma that’s complemented by a delicate fruity flavour. Full bodied with subtle sweetness and mild bittering notes, Kirin Ichiban is quickly gaining local support in trendy nightspots.

No report on Asia would be complete without a glance at the sub continent, and when visiting any Indian restaurant in Australia, I’ll bet my house on the fact you can order a Kingfisher lager to soothe than fiery vindaloo. Thankfully, it’s a great beer and worthy of your indulgence. A nice golden amber colour with white creamy head, Kingfisher is well balanced malt character and good solid back bitterness. As with any Asian beer, serve it icy cold, sit back, and enjoy.

Saturday, February 21, 2004

Brew Masters

With the Galaxy of beers available, the truly bright stars fall into the Premium and Boutique beer category. We’ve seen meteoric sales for our wine and RTO (Ready to Drink) markets, but with beer it’s only humdrum same old same old. Part of the problem is inherent in the drink. When we think about beer we think boring stuff like consistency and tradition. Beer doesn’t have a spectacular epicurean entry like the Sommelier offering a sniff of the cork and approval first taste, or the bartender with his swirling twirling dervish dancing performance when mixing a cocktail. No, this is an alcoholic beverage where the pizzazz is in the product, and an understanding attentive barperson, but breweries can still learn a lot about presentation and the leaders in this direction have come from the small breweries and premium product producers.

In part, the pleasure of grape grazing in the wine districts of Australia is the ‘winery experience’. The scenic ambience, guided tours of the grounds, plus top class snacks and meals is a heady experience that results in important ‘cellar door’ sales. Some small breweries have caught on to this and are reaping the rewards, while the big guys have learned that creative packaging of unusual styles of ale is quite profitable. Here are some of the stars to look for in your bottle shops and beer tour guide books.

Out west, two breweries showing the way are in Fremantle, Matilda Bay Brewing, at the old Ford Motor complex, and Little Creatures along the wharf. Little Creatures has spent more than $10 million to develop a first class brewery and bottling plant. Included in the plans is an ample tasting room and restaurant which spills to the upstairs balcony and out onto the deck overlooking the bay. Only two of their beers are available Australia-wide, being their Pale Ale and mid-strength Rogers Ale. Both are well crafted ales with the accent on hops and more hops. Matilda Bay Brewing has been around for two decades producing such Aussie classics as Redback Wheat and Dogbolter dark ale. With the popularity of mid-strength beers, CUB has had the pleasant problem of selling more beer than a brewery can produce, so along with the closing of the Masthead brewery at Sanctuary Cove, Queensland, Matilda Bay is combining the best products from both breweries. Available in bottle along with Redback is Beez Neez, an amber honeyed wheat beer, and Bohemian Pilzner, a Czech styled lager with plenty of saaz hops for a spicy floral aroma and flavour. Dogbolter and their Alpha Pale Ale are presented as part of their ‘Brewers Reserve” a series of specialty ales on tap at designated locales. If you’re down Margaret River way, why not stop in to the Bootleg Brewery to experience one of the very best country/winery style watering holes in Australia, and in Perth stop in to the backpacker style Wentworth Hotel on Murray Street to sample some Nail Ale.

What’s a discussion of South Australia without mentioning the perennial Aussie battler, Coopers Brewery? The re-branding and packaging of their draught lager now includes their new brewery location Regency Draught, and their Premium Ale has been replaced with Heritage Premium Ale, a ‘chill-filtered’ dry lager’ish styled pale ale with a pleasing hop aroma from late hopping and crisp finish with moderate back bitterness similar to European imported beers. Add to that a clever outdoor advertising campaign in Victoria and New South Wales “If it’s not at your local, sell your house” and you have a stylish modern approach that signifies the marriage of Coopers with Premium Beverages including Budweiser is operating on all cylinders. The sales figures around the country reflect this assessment on average; sales nationwide are between 40-50%, with a whopping 152% in the Northern Territory. In Adelaide?, why not stop into The Port Dock Hotel and Pub-Brewery to taste test their award winning ales including the country’s best milk stoat.

In Tasmania the best brewing bragging rights continues the North vs. South family feud. According to J. Boag & Son Director of Sales & Marketing Lyndon Adams, “James Boag’s Premium Lager is now the second largest selling domestic premium beer and we aim to consolidate this position with a new marketing and promotional activity including a new television commercial will be released mid-year. We will be looking to release another Limited Edition beer following the successful 1881 Traditional Ale in 2002 and Boag’s Honey Porter in 2003.” Mr Adams also said, “The popularity of the company’s latest tourist venture, the Boag’s Centre for Beer Lovers, has far exceeded expectations, welcoming over 10,000 tourists in its first year of operation.” “Feedback from our visitors has been very positive, meaning that we are not only spreading the “Boag’s word” nationally and internationally, we are contributing to growth in our beer business as well”. Mr Adams continued, “We are also excited that the Boag's Centre for Beer Lovers has gained accreditation in the National Tourism Accreditation Program that endorses best practices in the tourism industry. Accreditation provides the consumer and the industry with an assurance that our business is committed to quality practices and professionalism.” Meanwhile the southern Tasmanian tiger Cascade has undergone an upgrade of the new six-pack and carton design featuring imagery that reinforces purity and Tasmanian heritage. The bottles now have a foil neck label that finishes just below the bottle lip to stop any grating on the lips while slugging back a stubby. Cascade Premium took top honours at last years Australian Good Taste Beer Awards, plus their highly successful ’ Four Seasons’ Limited Edition beers will continue to challenge the epicurean palate.

Australia’s ‘King of Beers’ Crown Lager continues its amazing run as the number one premium beer for fifty years. Crown Lager was the best kept secret of diplomats and visiting dignitaries, until 1953 when CUB officially launched it to the public to celebrate the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. ‘Crownies’ cone-shaped bottle and foil label haven’t changed much over the years, so the cosmetics are slight highlighting a bolder red and gold crown. The packaging artwork and point of sale changes should start to appear in the bottle shops in April.

Chuck Hahn’s gang from the Malt Shovel Brewery have made a quiet entrance into the hotel industry with the opening of their James Squire Brewhouses in Melbourne and Sydney. At the Portland Hotel in Melbourne, some quality in-house brews are on tap including the award winning 3 Weissmen dark wheat, the Craic stout, and Portland Pale Ale. Word has it that the Craic and Portland Pale will make an appearance at the new Sydney Brewhouse at King Street Wharf. Malt Shovel continues to offer seasonal beers such as the Colonial Wheat and the winter warmer Australian Strong Ale, and to add to drinkers education, they offer beer and food matching nights titled ‘Ales & Tales’. All this has helped them achieve in increase of 40% in total sales last year.

Other breweries to keep a look out for are Grand Ridge Brewery from country Victoria with their 9 award winning ales and newly opened Blue Tongue Brewery in the Hunter Valley in New South Wales. Grand Ridge has made significant in roads in New South Wales and Queensland this summer with their Natural Blonde wheat beer proving very popular. Its flavour profile of orange and coriander is very refreshing on a hot day. Blue Tongue has hit the ground running with Bondi Blond & Red brewed under contract, a budget beer Brewery Bitter, an in-house pilsener and a Ginger Beer.